Archive for the ‘Seasonality’ Category

Coffee and Cheese

Thursday, November 3rd, 2011

Typically, I’m asked to pair cheese with wine and beer.  Maybe chocolate, or even cocktails.  But coffee? Not your first thought when it comes to tasting with cheese.

But  wait, we already pair dairy with coffee! We add milk to espresso and coffee, have cheese danish & cheesecake with our coffee… and I’ve learned that with the right cheeses, this roasted bean can make an intriguing and satisfying dance partner.

The first step is making sure you’re brewing the perfect cup of coffee.  Beans should be fresh, and ground as close as possible to when you’ll actually be using them.  If making french press coffee, be sure to bloom the grounds for about a minute before full steeping for four minutes.  Another hugely important factor is making sure that the water isn’t too hot. For the definitive guide on brewing coffee, plus more information in general, check out Counter Culture Coffee’s guide to making coffee.

Now for the cheese. The main flavors that I look for when picking cheese to pair with coffee are threefold: nutty; caramel-y; or chocolatey.  Here are four picks for cheeses that will be delicious with your bittersweet brew:

Barely Buzzed

 

The obvious choice for a cheese to pair with coffee would be one that already blends the two.  Enter Utah’s Beehive Cheese Co. They’ve created the cow’s milk Barely Buzzed, with an espresso-and-lavender-rubbed rind. Although it sounds bizarre, it works.  This cheese has smooth texture with cheddar-y notes, and the rind (entirely edible!) lends a chocolatey richness. Plus, I love that this cheese is a family affair – Cheesemakers Tim & Pat are husband and wife, and the espresso beans in the rind come from Tim’s brother’s Colorado Legacy Coffee Company.

Midnight Moon

 

Another unique American creation is Cypress Grove Creamery’s Midnight Moon. This cheese semi-firm, flaky goat’s milk cheese is aged for at least six months, allowing it to develop and form those crunchy bits (crystallized protein) that everyone goes nuts about. Made in Holland for the California cheesemaker, it’s akin to a firmer goat gouda, with its fruity, nutty, caramel notes and dense, smooth texture.

Reypenaer

 

 

Speaking of Gouda, try one of my faaavorite Dutch cheeses, Reypenaer.  At just over two years old, this cow’s milk cheese is aged in a lofty historic warehouse on the Old Rhine river in Holland.  This aging facility is one of the only ones left that doesn’t use refrigeration – it controls temperature and humidity by opening and closing wooden vents.  In this way the cheese ages naturally, and has a much more complex flavor than many other Goudas. Its rich, butterscotch, caramel notes will pair wonderfully with coffee, and its firm, crunchy texture makes it a hit among cheese fans.

 

Comté

 

 

One of the classics, Comté (com-TAY) has rich, complex flavors that are ideal for the bittersweet notes of strong coffee. This French cheese is similar to the Swiss-made Gruyere, but much nuttier – you’ll get notes of brown butter, hazelnuts, and wildflowers. The 80-lb wheels of raw cow’s milk are produced by cooperatives and aged anywhere between 4-18 months, so the texture will range from firm yet creamy on the palate to a much denser firm cheese. Made in the Franche-Comte region just west of the Swiss border, Comté is one of the kings of Alpine-style cheeses, and I’ve yet to find a poorly-made version.

 

So go forth and experiment! Try any of these cheeses with your morning brew or a post-dinner espresso. And let us know in the comments section any other cheeses you find that are just as delicious with your coffee as with wine.

 

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Posted in Autumn, Coffee, Cow, France, Goat, Holland, Milk Type, USA | Comments Closed

Hoja Santa – A Summertime Gift

Monday, August 22nd, 2011

Deep in the dog days of summer, the thought of a rich, hearty cheese makes me groan. I’m more in the mood for a light, refreshing little number to satisfy my cheese cravings.

Hoja Santa

Hoja Santa to the rescue.  Tasted during our August cheese class (True American Originals), this adorable little cheese hails from The Mozzarella Company in Dallas, Texas.  Paula Lambert, an American artisanal visionary, began handcrafting Italian-style mozzarella in the early 80′s – perhaps before the US market was even ready for it.  These days, she makes a variety of artisanal cheeses, including this leaf-wrapped beauty.  Using local milk from Oklahoma and sourcing hoja santa leaves (also known as Mexican pepperleaf) from local organic growers, the Mozzarella Company created a soft, young goat cheese wrapped in the aromatic leaves and tied with raffia.

The leaves impart subtle notes of pepper and sasparilla to the already bright, zesty cheese.  It is sold aged up to 6 months, but I prefer the younger version found in the summer and early fall.

Though this cheese is perfect for hot weather on its own or with a glass of Cava, it’s also delicious in a summer salad. Try it with sweet melon (below) for a bright, refreshing starter or even dessert.


Summer Melon Salad with Hoja Santa

  • 1 summer melon (such as Cantaloupe or Athena melon)
  • 1/2 – 1 round of Hoja Santa (2-5 oz)
  • 1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil (or more to taste)
  • 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice (or more to taste)
  • fresh mint or basil
  • sea salt or kosher salt, to taste

 

 

  1. Melon can be grilled or served fresh. Slice into small chunks.
  2. Chiffonade mint or basil.
  3. In large bowl, toss melon & herbs with olive oil and lemon juice, to taste
  4. Remove leaves from Hoja Santa. Crumble 1/2 round of cheese into bowl, using your hands.  Fold cheese & melon. Add more cheese if necessary.
  5. Add salt to taste.

Posted in Beer, Goat, Milk Type, Origin, Pairing, Recipe, Seasonality, Sparkling WIne/Champagne, Summer, USA, White Wine | Comments Closed

Spring Cheeses for The Great Outdoors

Monday, April 25th, 2011

The weather has been so freaking nice lately that it’s torturous to stay inside and type. I have been spending as much time outdoors as possible to soak up this lovely time of year when flowers are still in bloom, the trees provide a touch of shade and it’s yet to become the muggy swamp that is summer in the District.

sunshine = delicious grasses!

When picking cheeses to enjoy on an outdoor respite, there are three factors to keep in mind – seasonality (as always), portability, and pairing.  Spring is when all of our young goat cheeses are just starting to become available, and I’m chomping at the bit to get my hands on some.  We also have to consider the outdoor factor – cheeses that are too soft or stinky won’t hold up well to the heat and will be difficult to enjoy in a picnic setting.  And lastly, we want to think about pairing – what could be better than a cold beer or crisp, refreshing white wine to enjoy on a warm day?

Here are my picks for an outdoor cheese spread:

Sofia

You’ll definitely want to include a few goat cheeses, but some of the super soft goats can be hard to handle outdoors and get too runny in the sun. My top pick is Sofia, which is one of my all-time favorite cheeses.  Coming from Capriole Dairy in Indiana, this cheese is beautiful right now – and the beauty of the delicate veins of ash running through the brick-shaped cheese is only part of what I’m talking about.  It’s more fluffy and flaky than creamy, with notes of lemongrass and a hint of salinity. It’ll be tough to keep it outside for a very long time… but well worth it!

Rocchetta

For a more practical choice, take Rocchetta. This Italian gem (similar to La Tur) is a blend of cow, sheep and goat’s milks.  It’s fluffy and rich with the brightness of a goat cheese but not the tang.  It comes in a little plastic container as well, so it’s more portable.

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With these cheeses, a Portuguese Vinho Verde is perfection.  This is an affordable wine that’s slightly effervescent and meant to be drunk when young.  Its bright, citrus notes are ideal for goat cheese while the effervescence cleanses the palate after the creamy cheese.  It’s a light, delicious quaff for kicking back and cooling off.

Landaff

 

For some firmer, richer cheeses, we look to semi-firm cow’s milk.  Lately I’ve been enjoying Landaff, a raw milk cheese made by Landaff Creamery in New Hampshire’s White Mountains and aged at The Cellars at Jasper Hill in Vermont.  Based on Caerphilly, a Welsh classic, this cow’s milk cheese is toothsome and flaky, with a lemony tang that I enjoy more than its counterpart’s buttermilk notes.

Roccolo

If you like a bit of a bolder cheese, pick Roccolo, imported by Forever Cheese from Lombardy, Italy.  Its name translates to “bird snare,” which refers to the rind’s similarity to the local stone buildings of the region.  This is a bit smoother in texture than the Landaff, and its brine bath and aging imparts a saltier, earthier, woodsier flavor as well.  This cheese is riper toward the rind (in texture and flavor) than it is in the center, so be sure to cut a piece that encompasses both parts. One of my favorite cow’s milk cheeses right now, Roccolo will also hold up well to the elements.

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Both of these cow’s milk cheeses will be excellent with Hefeweizen or Witbier (“white” beer).  The low hops in these styles of beer won’t compete with the cheese and aren’t so hearty that they’ll weigh you down.  Hefeweizen typically has a bit of tartness, with honeyed notes of banana and clove; while Witbier has crisp notes of coriander, spice and and orange peel that are a great match for a lighter spring/summer spread.

 

Right now you can find these cheeses at Cork Market, in DC; and Arrowine, in Arlington. Enjoy your picnics, and let us know what you decide to serve!

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Posted in Al Fresco, Beer, Cow, Goat, Holidays/Occasions, Italy, Portugal, Seasonality, Spring, Summer, USA, White Wine | Comments Closed

Keeping Cozy with End-of-Winter Wine, Cheese & Charcuterie

Wednesday, February 23rd, 2011

Just when we thought the winter was over… it’s frigid out there!  While I impatiently wait for the spring weather to arrive, I just want to cozy up at home, cooking hearty meals and nourishing my friends and family.  My dutch oven has seen more action lately than the entire cast of Jersey Shore.

But on the nights when I’m too lazy to cook for real, there’s nothing more satisfying than a glass of a rich red wine and a big plate of rustic cheeses to match.

To me, a Syrah blend is the perfect pick for such an occasion.  Its notes of dark stone fruit, chocolate, smoke and spice make for a wonderfully complex wine that can hold up to hearty, robust cheeses to boot.  With Syrah coming from so many different regions – France, the United States, Argentina, Chile, and Australia – there are a million different expressions of this little dark-skinned grape.

For years the myth circulated that Syrah was brought from Persia to the Rhone region of France. Wellll, turns out that it’s a French grape after all – its parents are dureza, from the Rhone, and mondeuse blanche, from the Savoie.  And the Rhone is the most famous region for producing Syrah, where it’s produced solo in the north and blended with Grenache and Mouvedre in the south.  Australia is the other big shot when it comes to Shiraz (as it’s known in that part of the world), and the Barossa Valley in the south is the place to look for it.

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Syrah has high acidity, which makes it a great cheese wine, but its high tannins often negate that benefit.  That’s why I look for a blended Syrah/Shiraz, in which those harsh tannins (always an enemy of cheese) are softened.  The 2009 Red Dust Shiraz, from just north of Adelaide, Australia, is a total steal for just about $16. It’s produced by an Aussie/American venture that doesn’t own any vineyards, but buys grapes from amazing growers in The Barossa Valley , The Clare Valley and the Limestone Coast.  The Red Dust Shiraz is a blend of 95% Shiraz and 5% Merlot, which provides rich dark berry fruit, and notes of chocolate, black pepper and spice.

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And now for the cheese!

 

A big red like this needs some hearty, seasonally-appropriate cheeses to match.  Although I usually like to include a goat’s milk cheese on my plate, wait a few months – winter is not the time!  Instead, we have some aged, firm sheep and cow’s milk to munch on:

Dante

Dante, one of my fave US sheep’s milk cheeses, is produced by the Wisconsin Sheep Dairy Co-op, a 14-member co-op in the Upper Midwest. Dante is a seasonal cheese, made between February and September, when the pasture-grazing ewes are milked.  All member farms are committed to sustainable agriculture (many are certified organic), and none of the ewes are given artificial hormones.  The cheese is aged for a minimum of six months at Cedar Grove Cheese in Plain, WI, during which time it becomes firm yet pliant.  It’s slightly spicy, with rich notes of toasted almond and brown butter that lead to a long, intense finish – perfect for a winter’s evening!

 

Coolea, a unique Irish cheese from the Willems Family Farm, almost presents like a cross between a gouda and a cheddar.  Having moved from the Netherlands to a small farm in County Cork,Ireland, the Willems decided to start making cheese in 1979 using the milk from their own herd of cows. Named after a local village near Macroom, this raw cow’s milk cheese has even won competitions in the Netherlands!  This crowd-pleasing farmstead cheese has rich nutty, sweet flavors and a long, layered finish.  Coolea has a deep buttercup-yellow color with a hard, chewy and slightly crunchy texture.  Its flavors are rich, nutty and sweet with a long, layered finish.  It is one of the only Gouda-style cheeses that can hold up to a big red like Syrah.

Scharfe Maxx

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Finally, add a big alpine-style cheese to round out the plate with some funky, herbal notes.  Alpine-style cheeses from France and Switzerland (such as Comte, Gruyere, Appenzeller, etc) are at their peak ripeness in winter.  These huge wheels are made in summer, with milk gleaned from cows grazing on fresh summer grasses and wildflowers, and aged for somewhere between 9-20 months. Scharfe Maxx, made by Studer Dairy in Thurgau, Switzerland, is one of the most delicious alpine cheeses I’ve had lately.  It’s washed in a brine with herbs, and aged for a minimum of 6 months to keep a smooth, semi-firm texture but impart a tangy, meaty flavor with complex herbal notes and buttery undertones.  The big red bull on the label will give you some indication of the hearty, substantial nature of this cheese!  (Ps melt the leftovers in some fondue or in a grilled cheese sandwich with grilled onions. Mmmmm!)

If you really want to include a softer cheese, pick up a good baguette and some St. Marcellin (san mahr-se-LAHN).  Produced by 12 local creameries and 12 farms in the Rhone valley, this is a great regional pairing with a Syrah or Syrah blend.  St. Marcellin is a soft-ripened cow’s milk cheese with a super creamy, silky texture and an earthy, mushroomy flavor, and it comes in an adorable little earthen crock too!

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Upgrade this cheese plate to a full meal with some hearty charcuterie – Sopressata  or Salame Gentile made by Fra’ Mani or the Norcino Salame (made locally!) by OLLI Salumeria Americana.

The cheese doctor says plate and repeat nightly until you make a full recovery from the blustry winter weather!

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Posted in Cow, Ireland, Milk Type, Origin, Pairing, Red Wine, Seasonality, Sheep, Switzerland, USA, Winter | Comments Closed

Cheese, Chocolate & Bubbly

Thursday, February 10th, 2011

It’s that time of year again – Valentine’s Day. A day originally spent celebrating the pagan festival Lupercalia, that became co-opted by the church to commemorate a priest’s death, and later exploited by greeting card execs to sell useless fluffy crap, reinvigorate sluggish winter restaurant business, and inspire fear in the hearts of men while making women feel inadequate about their relationships or lack thereof.

Oh, I don’t actually hate Valentine’s Day...  I may be cynical, but I like to get flowers just like every other special lady.  However, there’s one thing better than flowers on Valentine’s Day – anything I can eat!  Whether you’re going big with a 14-course dinner for your sweetie or keeping it low-key with a group of your single friends, a cheese-chocolate-champagne pairing is the perfect way to celebrate.

 And who knew a cheese could express one’s feelings of affection so well? One of my favorite cheesemakers, Capriole Dairy, makes this adorable heart-shaped chèvre ($9.99) in three varieties – I recommend either plain or pink peppercorn. Judy Schad makes incredible farmstead cheeses year-round in southern Indiana but only produces these for Valentine’s Day.  Fresh goat cheese is a perfect match for bubbly wine and chocolate, as it’s bright, lively flavors will contrast beautifully with the richness of both.  Its light, fluffy texture and flavors are, incredibly, great as either a nibble before dinner or as dessert.  You could even enjoy this pairing for a breakfast in bed!

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MarieBelle is a fantastic chocolate-maker out of NYC, named after designer and founder Maribel Lieberman. Those of you in SoHo can stop in their Cacao Bar and Tea Salon for a quiet, cozy chocolate experience with your Valentine, but the rest of us can pick up the single-origin MarieBelle 65% Dark Chocolate Bar with Apricots (6.99).  The honeyed apricot provides a delicate, fruity contrast to the bittersweet chocolate and your bright, tangy goat cheese.

For a local option, try Gearheart’s 70% Dark Chocolate with Ginger ($4.50).  Tim Gearheart has been using local cream and butter to make chocolate in Charlottesville, Virginia since 2001.  The zing from the bits of crystallized ginger in this chocolate are best for your sweetie who likes to spice it up – and definitely better suited for the plain chèvre instead of the peppercorn. If you’re in Charlottesville or Richmond, stop in the store for a visit!

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Now for the important bit – let’s talk tasty beverages.  This is certainly the time to break out the rosé bubbly!  Deep pink and effervescent, it is perfect for a romantic or festive occasion.  My pick is the Patrick Bottex Vin du Bugey-Cerdon “La Cueille” NV ($29.99) from the Bugey (a lesser-known wine-growing region in eastern France, located midway between Lyon and the Swiss border).  “La Cueille” means “the cut” or “the pick”, and refers to the quality of the grapes that go into this wine. Its blend of 80% Gamay with 20% Poulsard (a local grape) provide a refreshing, slightly sweet balance to cheese and chocolate.  Cerdon de Bugey is always bubbly and pink, slightly similar to the Italian Brachetto d’Acqui, but the light tannins from the Gamay and the wine’s acidity cut the sweetness a bit.  With a creamy texture and hints of wild strawberries, this is a lively, fun wine pairing for any young cheese.

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So, what have we learned today? Valentine’s Day may be a bunch of bull, but is a great excuse to indulge in deliciousness!  Bring this cheese, chocolate and wine pairing to the table and you’ll definitely be collecting the most Valentines.  You can pick all of these items up at  Cheesetique  (and prices quoted are from the shop as well.)  Happy V-Day!

 

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Posted in Goat, Holidays/Occasions, Milk Type, Origin, Pairing, Sparkling WIne/Champagne, USA, Valentine's Day, Winter | Comments Closed

Football for Cheeseheads

Thursday, February 3rd, 2011

There are so many occasions for which an artisanal cheese course is a perfect fit.

… and a Superbowl party is not one of them!

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So get in the spirit of couch-lounging, beer-guzzling, and tv-shouting by serving some simple and tasty dishes built for grazing. 

This Sunday, I’ll be making carnitas tacos with cilantro, sour cream and pickled red onion; white bean and herb dip with toasted pita; fluffernutter brownies and these two very delicious, very cheesy dishes:

Goat Cheese-Stuffed Piquillo Peppers

from The Splendid Table:

  • 2 jars (12 ounces each) Spanish Piquillo peppers, drained
  • 1 5-ounce round fresh goat cheese, at room temperature – try a local cheesemaker!
  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 garlic clove, finely chopped
  • Coarse sea salt (to taste)
  • Coarsely ground black pepper (to taste)
  1. With your fingers, gently open the stem end of one of the peppers, being careful not to poke through the flesh. With a small spoon or your fingers, carefully stuff about ½ teaspoon goat cheese inside. It should fill the pepper’s cavity but make sure not to overstuff.  Repeat with the rest of the peppers.
  2. Preheat the broiler to high.
  3. Arrange the peppers in a single layer in a broiler-proof glass baking dish. Pour 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and then the garlic over them. Broil for 7 to 10 minutes, or until the cheese is soft and bubbly.

Feta Cheese Dip

from Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Everything:

This dip can easily be made into a spread by substituting cream cheese for the sour cream, and adding a tbsp of fresh lemon juice. You can also make it smoother (and create more dirty dishes!) by combining all ingredients in a blender or food processor.  The dip will keep for a day, covered in the fridge.

  • about 1 cup crumbled feta
  • 1 cup sour cream
  • 2 tbsp minced scallion
  • 2 tbsp minced fresh parsley, plus a little more
  • 1/2 tsp minced garlic (optional)
  • 1 tsp minced fresh marjoram or oregano, or 1/2 tsp dried
  • 1/2 tsp minced fresh thyme, or 1/4 tsp dried
  • lots of freshly ground black pepper
  • salt, to taste
  • freshly squeezed lemon juice, to taste
  1. Combine all ingredients (except the salt and the lemon juice) and mash with a fork or potato masher. (This would be where you could instead use the food processor, if desired). 
  2. Taste, and add as much or as little salt and lemon juice as necessary.
  3. Garnish with extra parsley.

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Enjoy both of these snacks with a light, easy-drinking beer that’s not super hoppy (a hoppy beer, much like a tannic wine, is not cheese-friendly).  I like Sam Smith Organic Lager or Ale.

As for my Superbowl predictions, I don’t have a strong preference for either of these particular teams to win. 

Bring from Buffalo, I’ll just leave you with this last thought:

Go Bills! :)

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Posted in Beer, Blended, Cow, Goat, Holidays/Occasions, Milk Type, Pairing, Seasonality, Sheep, Superbowl | Comments Closed

Thank Cheeses! Part II

Tuesday, November 23rd, 2010

Every year, after the turkey but before the barrage of desserts, my family and friends go around the Thanksgiving table to share what we are thankful for and to vote for our favorite dish.  Yes it’s corny.  But it usually turns into a lively, raucous debate, with half the table cheering and chanting for the corn pudding, half for the cranberry mousse and one lone holdout for the stuffing.  I always go for cranberry mousse, and as anyone who knows me would expect, I’m quite vocal about it!

But in thinking about food and being thankful, I can’t help but feel blessed to live in an area that is so rich in foodways – particularly artisanal cheeses. The dairy farmers of the Mid-Atlantic area are producing some amazing cheeses that consistently win national and international awards.  (Not only do they make delicious cheeses, but they are also some of the nicest people you’ll ever meet!)

If we, as a region, want to be able to shop locally and foster more artisan cheesemakers, we need to support the ones who are already producing these fantastic cheeses.  So here are my local picks for seasonal, absolutely delicious cheeses that will fit right in with your Thanksgiving dinner:

Ashed Log

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Pipe Dreams Ashed Log is one of my favorite local cheeses. Owner Brad Parker spent years learning the traditions of cheese-making on a small farm in the French countryside, and Pipe Dreams’ handmade cheeses are the delicious result.  The Parkers’ tiny farm is located in Greencastle, PA, right above the Maryland border.  The pasteurized Ashed Chèvre – aged only for a few weeks – is covered in a thin layer of ash, which develops a light bloomy rind.  The cheese itself is dense and creamy, with a bright, tangy kick in spring but a heady, earthy flavor in fall.  What is available right now is the last we’ll see again until the spring, when the goats start milking again, so enjoy it while you can!

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Piedmont

Everona Piedmont is an amazing raw sheep’s milk cheese from Everona Dairy in Rapidan, Virginia.  Owner and cheesemaker Pat Elliot originally started sheepherding just to give her border collies something to do! She then realized the delicious cheeses that were possible with fresh, raw sheep’s milk, and before you know it, she was winning all sorts of awards. Everona’s cheeses reflect the qualities of the lush and tender grasses that grow from the rich, red Piedmont soil in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains.  Made by hand from the farm’s small family of ewes, its firm, dense texture allows the full, nutty flavor to come through with a tangy kick on the finish.

Appalachian

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Made just a few hours away in Galax, Virginia, Meadow Creek Appalachian is our region’s answer to French tomme-style cheeses.  It’s supple, semi-soft texture leads to a rich, milky flavor that practically melts on your tongue.  This cheese is a group effort by the Feete family, who rotationally grazes their herd of Jersey cows in fields that never see pesticides or herbicides.  The cows are never confined, nor are they ever fed silage.  This love for their herd shows in the quality of all of the Meadow Creek Dairy cheeses, but the buttery, grassy quality of Appalachian is perfect for the earthy fall flavors on your Thanksgiving table.

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Talbot Reserve

Chapel Creamery Talbot Reserve is one of our region’s finest cheddars. The farm is nestled away in the countryside of Talbot County on Maryland’s Eastern Shore, home to Eric and Holly Foster, four kids, and 110 head of Jersey and Holstein dairy cows. Their dairy cows graze on clover and rye grass across a 45-acre fertile pasture, producing a high-quality milk that’s rich in cream. The milk is all-natural and contains no synthetic hormones, antibiotics, or chemical compounds.  Since it is illegal to commercially produce raw-milk cheeses in the state of Maryland, Holly drives to Pennsylvania twice a month to collaborate with Henry Lapp, an Amish cheesemaker in Lancaster County, Pa.  Aged for over a year, Talbot Reserve is a different kind of cheddar, in that it has a bloomy rind. The age of the cheese guarantees a complex, sharp flavor to the cheese, although it remains quite creamy in texture.

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To find these cheeses, try Cowgirl Creamery in downtown DC; Cheesetique in Del Ray; or La Fromagerie in Old Town.  All three shops carry all of some of these, plus a a plethora of other local cheeses. Happy Thanksgiving!

Posted in Autumn, Cow, Goat, Holidays/Occasions, Seasonality, Sheep, Thanksgiving, USA | Comments Closed

Thank Cheeses! Part I

Wednesday, November 17th, 2010

Although I take no credit for any actual cooking on Thanksgiving (many accolades go to my mom for that), I am of course charged with bringing the cheese and wine for snacking while watching football and cuddling babies before dinner.

Once upon a time, I was asked by a family member (who shall remain unnamed for fear of retribution by cheese-lovers everywhere) to bring some “normal” cheeses. Luckily this was over the phone, as I was unable to control my eyebrows from shooting up in disbelief. But these are normal cheeses, I thought to myself. It’s those mass-produced, processed cheeses that are weird!

However, for the sake of family harmony, I kept my mouth shut and just brought the same approachable, fantastic artisanal cheeses that I was planning to bring. Needless to say, they were enjoyed by all, even (especially!) by the “normal” cheese-requester.

So here are my suggestions for unique but affordable cheeses for your Thanksgiving table that everyone will love:

Purple Haze

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Made by Cypress Grove Chèvre in McKinleyville, California among the towering redwood trees, Purple Haze is a lush and fluffy chèvre, sprinkled with tender purple buds of lavender and wild fennel pollen. The lavender and fennel pollen add an ethereal quality to the tangy goat cheese; floral and piquant, it recalls the flavors of Provence and the Mediterranean and adds an unexpected element to your Thanksgiving cheese selection.

I recommend removing the plastic vacuum seal and allowing some of the excess whey to drain.  Just set the small round on paper towels for about an hour while it comes to room temperature.

Ossau-Iraty

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Ossau-Iraty is one of the world-renowned AOC Brebis-style cheeses from the Western Pyrenees of France.  Allegedly it was created by Aristee, the shepherd son of Apollo, making it one of the first cheeses ever!

It is simultaneously elegant and rustic, rich and gentle, firm but with a creamy mouthfeel.  It has notes of brown butter and caramel with a slight hazelnut finish, without any of the lanolin qualities you sometimes find in sheep’s milk. Pick up the raw milk version – the complexity you’ll find is most definitely worth a bit more in price.

Beemster XO Gouda

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Beemster XO Gouda comes from the quiet, canal-lined pastures of North Holland, and is crafted using the original techniques employed by the founders of the Beemster Polder Cheese Co-op since 1901. The Master Cheesemakers who create Beemster cheeses are all local residents in the polder and have inherited generations of experience in crafting cheese. The original recipe for the cheese still remains a closely guarded secret!

The XO Gouda is aged for two years, allowing the cheese to develop rich, deep flavors of toffee, whiskey and caramelized sugar, as well as crunchy bits of crystallized casein. In my experience approximately 97.8% of people go freaking crazy for this cheese.

Bayley Hazen Blue

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For those caseophiles who’s families might not be so into blue cheese, try Bayley Hazen Blue to convert those pennicllium roqueforti-phobes.

This cheese, named for a historic road in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom (which itself is named after two Revolutionary War-era figures), blows me away with its gentle yet layered flavor.  It is firm with a texture similar to milk chocolate, and has a nutty, slightly grassy flavor with delicate hints of licorice.  Though incredibly complex, it lacks that punch-in-the-face “blueness” that some find offensive.

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To serve these cheeses, I recommend making a platter to enjoy before the meal rather than a composed cheese plate before dessert.  Your guests will probably be so full – and experiencing palate-fatigue! – that a cheese course after dinner might be a bit overwhelming.  Instead, serve first, on a large cutting board (with separate knives for each) along with some baguette slices, fresh-cut Pink Lady apples, tart cherry preserve and candied pecans.  Don’t forget to take the cheeses out of the fridge at least an hour before enjoying.

Stay tuned next week for Thanksgiving Cheese Part II!

Posted in Autumn, Cow, France, Goat, Holidays/Occasions, Holland, Sheep, Thanksgiving, USA | 1 Comment »

End-of-Summer Cheese and Beer Pick!

Monday, August 30th, 2010

cabot clothbound cheddar (center)

Right about now everyone in our fair city seems to rush out to the Atlantic beaches to enjoy the last sip of summer known as Labor Day Weekend.  What could be better to bring along than a cold brew, and a firm cheese that stands up to the outdoors?

Beer and cheese pairings are super-trendy right now, and I admit I’ve been slow in joining the bandwagon.  But recently I stumbled upon a pairing that turned my head – Dogfish Head Pangaea Ale and Cabot Clothbound Cheddar.

That’s right – I said Cabot cheddar.  But there is a world of difference between this particular Cabot cheddar and the multitudes of Cabot you’ll find in the refrigerated aisle at the grocery store.

Let’s start by talking about what Cabot is, and isn’t. Cabot is a cooperative in Vermont made up of 1200 members. The coop adheres to sustainable farming guidelines and is member-owned, which allows small farmers to keep their farms afloat and be involved in the cooperative’s decision-making.  Most of Cabot cheddar is mass-produced and ends up shrink-wrapped.  It’s perfectly acceptable, but it’s not even close to the realm of what I consider true artisan cheese.

However, the Clothbound Cheddar is the result of a collaboration between Cabot and Jasper Hill Farm, one of my absolute favorite US cheesemakers.  The milk used is sourced solely from George Kempton’s Farm in Peacham, VT, and only culled from pastured, grass-fed cows.  After two days at Kempton Farms, it’s sent to the Cellars at Jasper Hill for aging.  There, Neals Yard-trained brothers Mateo and Andy Kehler are responsible for the 12-months aging that gives Cabot Clothbound cheddar its distinctive flavor and texture.

Just like traditional British farmhouse cheddar, its rind is rubbed with lard and wrapped in cheesecloth to age.  This treatment allows the cheese to breathe and enables that flaky, slightly crystalline texture that somehow also melts on the tongue.

This cheese, which won big at the 2006 American Cheese Society awards by taking the top prize of Best in Show, is far and away my top pick for American cheddar.  It has wonderfully complex layers of flavor – first tangy, then nutty, with hints of caramel and fruit on the finish.

A hearty cheese like this cries out for beer, which has long been considered a great match for classic British cheddar. This cheddar’s delicate complexity calls for an equally complex beer.  Dogfish Head – a local brewery out of Rehoboth Beach, DE – has created such a beer with its Pangaea Ale.  Pangaea is designed to be a mélange of worldly flavors, and is made with crystallized ginger from Australia, basmati rice from Asia, South American quinoa and a bevy of other ingredients representing the seven continents.

Pangaea, with its slight spiciness, offers a refreshing balance to the cheese, particularly since it’s not too hoppy – a bitter beer is often a cheese-destroyer!  And since the beer is smooth and crisp, it is wonderfully refreshing for an end of summer scorcher like the Labor Day weekend we have ahead. To accompany, bring along some pickled raisins made by chef Renee Erickson of Boat Street Café. This tiny shop in Seattle pickles plump golden raisins with apple cider vinegar, mustard seed, bay leaf, thyme and arbol chilies, which results in a fantastically sweet, sour and spicy companion for the cheese.

This crowd-pleasing match is perfectly portable outdoors and will liven up any seaside happy hour.  Or, your neighborhood porch party, if you’re stuck in the sweltering streets of DC like me!

Posted in Autumn, Beer, Cow, Pairing, USA | Comments Closed

Cheese & Wine Pairings for Spring and Summer

Friday, April 9th, 2010

Now that this sublime weather is upon us, I’m often asked what cheeses suit this time of year. Seasonality and flavor both come into play, and young goat and sheep’s milks cheeses are a harbinger of the season.  These animals stop producing milk while pregnant in the winter, and don’t begin again until early spring.  A soft goat or sheep’s milk cheese, particularly those made from animals that have been grazing on the lush grasses of summer, is a perfect choice.

When it comes to choosing wines, certain wines are more appropriate for the hot, humid weather that the mid-Atlantic summer brings.  A tawny port might be great for a fireside meal in the winter, but becomes too heavy for summertime al fresco dining.  A bracing white, fruity rosé or light red wine is refreshing, and all pair well with many different cheeses! Here are my top four pairings for the season:

la tur

Viognier & La Tur
Viognier is a great white for summer – its rich texture and notes of honeysuckle evoke the floral aromas of relaxing on the front porch.  The hint of sweetness pairs well with the blend of sheep, cow and goat’s milks which comprise La Tur. At just four weeks old, this cheese is a soft, fluffy, delicate concoction from the Piedmont region of Italy. The flavors of La Tur, when young, are light, tangy and milky and will appeal to even those who are not fond of goat or sheep’s milk cheeses.

Albarino & Coupole
Albarino continues to be an emerging white from Rias Biaxas, Spain.  Its lush, tropical yet zesty flavors pair well with a young, soft goat cheese.  Coupole, from Vermont Butter & Cheese (one of the pioneers in US artisanal cheese-making) is a wonderful summer cheese, with its bright, lemony, tangy flavors and creamy, dense texture.  Goat cheeses are always at their best in summer (right after goats begin producing milk again) and their bright flavors are a refreshing change for summer.

pecorino ginepro

Pinot Noir & Pecorino Ginepro
For those who want to serve a red with their summer cheeses, Pinot Noir offers complexity without heaviness.  It also happens to be a fantastic match for most cheeses! Its notes of cherries & violets pair well with Pecorino Ginepro, a sheep’s milk cheese from Emilia-Romagna, Italy.  This semi-firm cheese is submerged in a bath of crushed juniper berries and balsamic vinegar during its minimum of four months aging.  The long bath imparts a fruity, bright, slightly woodsy flavor with an underlying sweetness.  This pairing offers a richer cheese and wine pairing that will hold up well in the summer air.

Rosé & Appenzeller
A few years ago, Rosé became the hip new summer wine on the scene.  Quite different than its doppelganger White Zinfandel, Rosé often has delicious notes of ripe berries, strawberries and even floral hints, yet maintains a bright acidity.  Appenzeller is a classic cow’s milk cheese from Switzerland that gains unique flavors from the special blend of herbs, liquors and wines in which the wheels are bathed.  Aged for a minimum of four months, the texture is firm but smooth, with fruity, rich, herbal flavors that pair wonderfully with a spicy Rosé.

Posted in Al Fresco, Blended, Cow, Goat, Italy, Pairing, Red Wine, Seasonality, Sheep, Summer, Switzerland, USA, White Wine | Comments Closed